1972: the original
Audemars Piguet commissioned a new sport luxury watch in 1971. Gérald Genta delivered the design overnight: an octagonal bezel held by eight visible screws, an integrated tapisserie dial, and the integrated bracelet that would define an entire watch category. The original Royal Oak debuted at the 1972 Basel Fair at 3,300 Swiss francs — roughly ten times the typical price for a steel sport watch at the time.
The watch was almost a commercial failure. AP couldn't sell the initial production run for two years. By 1976, sentiment had shifted; by the 1990s, the Royal Oak was the most-counterfeited luxury watch design in history.
The 8 screws
The eight visible hexagonal screws on the octagonal bezel are the Royal Oak's most identifiable signature. They are not decorative — they hold the bezel against the case and gasket. Their alignment is perfectionist: AP polishes each screw individually so all eight slots point in the same direction at every assembly.
Royal Pop pays homage to those eight screws in two ways: the case retains the octagonal silhouette, and the eight pocket-watch colorways are each named for the number "eight" in a different language — a quiet tribute that only watch nerds will catch.
What Royal Pop is, mechanically
Where the original Royal Oak houses AP's Caliber 2121 ultra-thin automatic (worth a small house), Royal Pop runs Swatch's hand-wound SISTEM51 — the watch industry's most automated movement, assembled in 51 parts on a fully robotic line in Grenchen, Switzerland. 90-hour power reserve. Hand-wound to give the user a physical interaction the original SISTEM51 (automatic) lacks.
All 8 Royal Pop Colorways
Otto Rosso
Italian for "eight red"
SKU: SSX03R100N
$400 Lépine / $420 Savonnette
Huit Blanc
French for "eight white"
SKU: SSX03W100N
$400 Lépine / $420 Savonnette
Green Eight
English
SKU: SSX03G100N
$400 Lépine / $420 Savonnette
Blaue Acht
German for "eight blue"
SKU: SSX03B100N
$400 Lépine / $420 Savonnette
Orenji Hachi
Japanese for "eight orange"
SKU: SSX03O100N
$400 Lépine / $420 Savonnette
Lan Ba
Mandarin for "eight blue"
SKU: SSX03L100N
$400 Lépine / $420 Savonnette
Ocho Negro
Spanish for "eight black"
SKU: SSX03K100N
$400 Lépine / $420 Savonnette
OTG Roz
Polish for "eight pink"
SKU: SSX03P100N
$400 Lépine / $420 Savonnette
Gérald Genta: The Visionary Behind the Royal Oak and Beyond
Gérald Genta, born in 1931 in Geneva, revolutionized watch design in the 20th century. His most iconic creation, the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak, debuted in 1972 as the first luxury sports watch in stainless steel, priced at $3,240—a staggering sum at the time. Its octagonal bezel, exposed screws, and integrated bracelet were groundbreaking, challenging traditional dress watch aesthetics. Genta’s sketches, often completed in a single sitting, were characterized by fluidity and precision, capturing the essence of his vision with minimal revisions.
Beyond the Royal Oak, Genta’s portfolio includes the Patek Philippe Nautilus (1976) and the IWC Ingenieur (1976), both of which redefined luxury sports watches. The Nautilus, with its porthole-inspired design, and the Ingenieur, with its industrial robustness, showcased Genta’s ability to blend functionality with elegance. His designs were not just watches; they were statements of modernity, appealing to a generation seeking innovation and individuality.
Genta’s legacy extends beyond his designs. He was a prolific artist, creating enamel dials and even designing watches for Disney characters. His ability to balance creativity with technical feasibility made him a unique figure in horology. Today, his designs remain benchmarks for luxury watches, influencing countless brands and models.
What Would Genta Think of a Bioceramic Royal Pop?
Genta’s philosophy was rooted in pushing boundaries and redefining norms. The Royal Pop, with its Bioceramic case and $400 price point, would likely intrigue him. Bioceramic, a material blending ceramic and plastic, offers durability and lightness, aligning with Genta’s emphasis on innovation. The hand-wound SISTEM51 movement, developed by Swatch, simplifies mechanical watchmaking, making it accessible to a broader audience—a concept Genta might have appreciated.
The Royal Pop’s playful colorways and pocket watch format diverge from Genta’s traditional designs, but their boldness echoes his spirit. The Lépine-style case, with its open face and minimalist design, pays homage to classic pocket watches while embracing modern materials. Genta might have seen the Royal Pop as a bridge between high horology and everyday wearability, much like how the Royal Oak bridged luxury and sport.
For buyers, the Royal Pop represents a chance to own a piece of horological history reimagined for the 21st century. Its affordability and design resonate with Genta’s vision of making exceptional watches accessible. Whether wearing it as a statement piece or appreciating its craftsmanship, the Royal Pop carries forward Genta’s legacy of innovation and creativity.